Surf Capital or Gringo Capital?
November 20, 2012
The past two weekends we have gone to Rincon, an hour north of Combate. Rincon is known for its epic surfing (some of the best in North America) and the high surf season is now. Naturally I wanted to check it out. It is a sleepy little town (like most here on the west side) and it stuck true to the guidebooks- there really are old school VW minivans and beetles driving down the streets. This was the highest concentration of tourists I have seen yet. Puerto Ricans here had dreadlocks and tan skin, from all the outside time and there were many non-Puerto Rican surfers and some girls shredding on the waves as well. Anyways, people don’t wear wetsuits because the water is so warm (my ideal learning to surf spot) but the water is littered by rocky/cement breaks so it is not ideal for swimming or beginners surf. There is also a very strong current that can suck you out if you’re not careful. We were all boogie-boarding a distance from the surfers when a gray haired man in his mid-forties paddled up on his board to ask if we were ok. It was really nice since the current was a bit strong and pulled us over to the left. He just wanted to make sure we were safe. I can’t imagine why he didn’t think we were professionals… Bonnie-May was boogie-boarding for the first time ever. Whenever a big wave came she would stick her head down straight into it and just let it wash over her- instead of the usual technique of "swim under the wave". Leanne and I could barely stay on our boards and Leanne kept getting pushed to shore before she could even make it out past the break. Erica rode one in and just flopped around with the rest of us afterwards. Bonnie-may was hilarious to watch, she caught the most waves and loved it. Without any fear of the ocean or being swept away.
After our second outing in Rincon we rushed back home, grabbed a snack, and scurried to the bioluminescent bay in La Parguera. We got on a local boat, by local it wasn’t the glass bottom boat that starting sounding off some tunes immediately, and we were thankful to be on a quieter boat with a bunch of Puerto Ricans. The boat ride was about 20 minutes to the bay, through the darkness and with little light from the moon (it is best to go when there is no moon out) we headed to the bay. I had no idea what to expect, I didn’t exactly know what dinoflagellates would do. There was a young man, maybe 18, wearing a wetsuit. I had brought my swimsuit thinking this was like a cruise ship where we got out and went swimming (not the case). We pulled into the bay and the ship stirred up its motor and all of a sudden the black water starts to glow like white clothes in blacklight. It was a greenish iridescent color. Disturbing the water activates the iridescence, making the bay glow (hence the boat motor was kept running the whole time which did not make for the most peaceful experience). The guy in the wetsuit hopped into the water and put on a show for about 5 minutes where he swam around the boat and under the water and the water glowed around the outline of his body and following his movements. It looked like some crazy Avatar shit. I swear. But it was real! It was one of those moments (minus the constant flashes of the cameras from the Puerto Ricans and the boats ever-running motor) that nature amazes you. I tried to imagine what it would be like when explorers had canoed through the bay and saw the waters aglow. It was a fascinating experience, although I wished it was longer. Leanne said it was a great night for it (she has been twice previously) and I felt pretty lucky to have seen such an awesome sight. We are trying to plan a kayaking trip some night to the bay, so we can have more time to enjoy the peacefulness of the bay. But for now I am satisfied with my real life Avatar experience.
Some "sex palace", really. Created by a man where couples could come and enjoy weekends on pleasure with multiple partners. Very gaudy.